On the grate

Three ways to melt raclette by the fire — the traditional Swiss half-wheel, individual barbeclettes, and a fast griddle — plus what to build around it and how to serve it.

Not a recipe. The sound a cold can makes at the exact moment the preparation is finished and the evening turns from work into sitting by the fire.

A thick bone-in ribeye, coarse salt and a two-hour bed of embers. Which cut to buy, how to build the fire, and the internal temperature never to go past.